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Fade (v); fading
|
Lose shade or intensity of colour.
Note: Through exposure to light.
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Fading - colour
|
General
loss of colour to the surface.
Note:
Through exposure to light.
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Fading to light
|
Loss of colour of a surface through
exposure to natural or artificial light.
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Fancy leather
|
Leather for the manufacture of
smaller leather articles, such as purses, wallets, portfolios;
includes morocco, pinseal, sheep leathers.
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Fashion colour
|
Colour or range of colours of
seasonal duration, promoted as fashion trend.
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Fastness
|
General term to meet required
properties for different leather types like fastness to cleaning,
fastness to water spotting, fastness to dry and wet rubbing
etc.
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Fat
|
Natural mixture of triglycerides
of middle and long-chained fatty acids. Usually, fats, also
known as lipids, are solids at ambient temperature and oils
are liquids.
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Fat content
|
The amount of fat in a material.
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Fat soluble dyestuff
|
Dyestuff soluble in fat.
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Fat tannage
|
Tannage by treatment with soft
animal fats which undergo chemical changes in contact with the
skin fibre, leading to the fixation of fatty matter.
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Fatigue
|
Failure of a material
by cracking or breaking resulting from repeated or cyclic stress.
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Fatliquor (v); fatliquoring
|
Introduce oil into leather, normally
by drumming it with an oil-in-water emulsion, to provide lubrication
to the leather.
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Fatliquor soap
|
Soap produced as a result of
the reaction of saponifiable fatty matter in leather with alkaline
liquors.
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Fatting
|
Application, in liquid or solid
state, of oils, fats and waxes to leather.
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Fatty acid
|
Organic monobasic
acid derived from the series of aliphatic hydrocarbons; examples
are palmitic acid, stearic acid and oleic acid.
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Fatty alcohol
|
More or less water insoluble
monohydric alcohol with a medium number of carbon atoms, 12
or more, and especially those derived from the ester waxes.
Note: Ester waxes such as cetyl
alcohol, C16H33OH.
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Fatty alcohol sulphate tannage
|
Treatment with alkyl sulphate
or alkylene sulphate in the acid region.
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Fatty matter
|
Oils, fats and waxes and similar
substances present in a material, that can be extracted from
animal skins and leather by organic solvents such as dichloromethane.
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Fatty spue
|
Material
that, once in the leather is later expressed to the surface
by mechanical, physical or chemical means. Fatty spue is generally
a powdery spue, derived from natural fat or from fatty matter
used to lubricate the leather.
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Fatty stain
|
Mottled
discolouration due to migration of natural fat to the surface
of the hide or skin.
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|
Feather dyeing
|
Application of a dye solution
to the extreme tips of guard hairs, with a single wing feather
of a swan, goose or turkey, etc.
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|
Feel
|
Sensation felt by
touching or handling a leather. For example, soft, smooth, thick,
flexible, etc.
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Feel improver
|
Finish agent used to improve
the impression of physical properties of leather like smoothness,
flexibility etc.
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Fellmongery
|
Establishment where wool is removed
from woolled sheepskins, usually by painting. The washed and
dried wool and the limed, delimed, bated and pickled pelts being
sold separately.
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|
Felt
|
Compressed, densely
matted unwoven fabric of wool, sometimes with rayon or hair.
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|
Felting
|
Condition
of wool fibres which have become interlocked and matted by means
of their outer scales. One usual cause when processing fine
wool skins is too much agitation in the process vessel.
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Fermentation
|
Any process involving the mass
culture of micro-organisms, either aerobic or anaerobic. When
dealing with waste, it refers to composting or biomethanisation.
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|
Fibre
|
Extremely long, fine,
pliable, cohesive, natural or manufactured threadlike material.
Note: Fibre of collagen, wool, cotton, nylon, etc.
|
|
Fibre bundle
|
Collection of more or less parallel
fibres such as collagen fibres, somehow bound together.
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|
Fibre fullness
|
Term describing the actual diameter
of the collagen fibres in pelt or leather in relation to the
diameter which could, or should, be achieved.
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|
Fibre pattern
|
Fibre pattern is the internal
structure of the hide or skin as exposed under the microscope,
such as the arrangement of the fibrils, fibres and fibre bundles
in a hide or skin as shown, for example, by a vertical section
through it.
See: Collagen; dermis; structural
features.
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|
Fibre weave
|
The way in which the fibres or
fibre bundles in the dermis appear, in a vertical section through
it, to be interlaced or assembled to form a sheet.
See: Compactness; structural
features.
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Fibril
|
One of the minute
threadlike elements of a natural or synthetic fibre.
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|
Fibrous protein
|
Insoluble protein, occurring
naturally in the form of fibres built up of macromolecules arranged
more or less along the fibre axis and consisting of groups of
helical polypeptide chains, held together parallel to each other.
Note: Collagen, keratin and elastin.
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|
Filler
|
A material used to fill the interstices
of leather.
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|
Filling agent
|
Finish agent mostly used for
splits and buffed grain leather to improve fullness, pleasing
handle and improve the surface appearance of the leather.
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|
Filling property
|
Ability of a finish agent to
achieve desired filling effects for a leather.
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|
Film former
|
Material incorporated in a finish
to form a film on evaporation of the solvent. Note: Casein,
nitrocellulose, polyacrylates.
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|
Film formation
|
Ability of a finish preparation
to form a film on evaporation of the solvents or water. Depending
on the binders used in the film-forming material, a wide range
of effects and properties of the leather may be obtained.
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|
Film properties
|
Properties of a finish film such
as flexibility, smoothness, gloss, handle, etc.
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|
Film spreading
|
Ability of a film-forming finish
preparation to flow out over the surface of a leather.
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|
Film transfer finish
|
Finish coat is applied by means
of transfer films. The transfer films are manufactured by lamination
of different coloured aluminium bronzes at high temperatures.
Mainly used for gold and silver leather.
|
|
Film-forming properties
|
Ability of a film-forming material
incorporated in a finish preparation to achieve desired film-forming.
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Filter bag
|
Air filter to remove dust.
|
|
Filter press
|
Filter comprising a set of vertical,
juxtaposed recessed plates, pressed hard against each other
by hydraulic jacks at the end of the set.
Filter clothes are applied to
the two grooved surfaces of the plates. The sludge to be filtered
arrives under pressure in the filtration chamber through orifices
generally in the centre of the plates. Solid sludge gradually
accumulates in the filtration chamber until the final compacted
cake is formed. Cakes are discharged by separation of the plates.
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|
Filter bell
|
Glass container,
more or less shaped as a bell, used in some analytical methods,
for example in vegetable tannins analysis.
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|
Fine grain
|
Leather whose grain
is smooth and the hair follicles are minute.
See: Fine-pored leather.
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|
Fine hair, (short)
|
Short hair as is possessed by
rats.
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|
Fineness of wool
|
Degree of wool quality. Smooth wool, with no impurities
or coarseness. Wool of high quality.
See: Wool
count.
|
|
Fine-pored leather
|
Leather whose grain
shows fine and regular hair follicle design.
|
|
Finish (v); finishing
|
Treatments applied to the tanned
hide or skin to give it the desired properties as a commercial
product, such as bleaching,
degreasing, dyeing, retanning, introduction of grease, mechanical
treatments applied to the wet or dried leather and finally the
treatment of the leather surface with pigmented finishes and
seasons. In the narrower sense limited to those treatments designed
to enhance the appearance and/or give the grain or flesh surface
special properties.
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|
Finish adhesion
|
Measure of the ability
of a film of finish to resist being pulled away from the surface
of the leather to which it is being applied.
|
|
Finish cracks
|
Cracking
of the finish is generally a lack of flexibility in the finish
film.
|
|
Finish pinhole
|
Small
openings in the finish, especially a pigment coat, are generally
due to grain imperfections that the finish cannot fill or cover.
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|
Finish runs
|
Finish
runs tend to occur when applying a heavy coat of finish and
moving the skins to the hanging area too quickly. The finish
then runs down the surface of the leather before it has time
to set.
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|
Finishing auxiliary
|
Additional agent used in a finish
to achieve desired properties or requirements of a finished
leather.
|
|
Finishing formulation
|
Finish of a leather can vary
greatly depending on the purpose of the leather. To achieve
the desired properties and requirements, the different finish
coats are mixtures and combinations of various finishing agents
and components set out in a finishing formulation.
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|
Finishing line
|
Installation for the continuous
finishing of leather comprising such operations as roller coating,
intermediate drying and spray finishing with additional final
drying. The leather is transported by conveyors to or from and/or
through the various machines or installations.
|
|
Finishing recipe
|
Statement of the amounts of the
various finishing agents used in a finishing formulation as
well as instructions for the application processes like temperature,
time etc. The finishing recipe is put down in writing to ensure
reproducible leather quality later on.
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|
Firm grain
|
Leather with a tight
fibre and grain structure.
|
|
Firmness
|
Property of a material
being able to resist bending and other forces.
|
|
Fish eye
|
Fish eyes
are small areas that resist wetting when the finish and subsequent
coats are applied. The cause can be when too much anti-foam
agent is used and/or when small particles are present in the
anti-foam agent.
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|
Fix (v); fixing
|
Convert loosely held or water
soluble material in leather, such as dye or vegetable tannin,
into firmly held or water insoluble form by chemical and/or
physical processes.
|
|
Fixation
|
a) Conversion of
loosely held, or water-soluble, material in leather into a firmly
held, or water-insoluble form.
b) Fixation of
a base coat on the leather surface or the fixation of a finish
coat onto another finish coat.
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|
Fixed tannin
|
Tannin fixed by hide substance
in a form more or less resistant to the action of water; calculated
from the composition of leather as the difference from 100 of
the sum of the percentages of moisture, ash, grease, hide substance
and organic water-soluble matter.
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|
Fixing agent
|
Additional agents or additives
are used to achieve sufficient fixation of finish coats depending
on the type of finish used. Note: Aldehyde, acetic acid and/or
chromium (III) salts, modified melamine compounds.
|
|
Fixing bath
|
Bath or liquor, that contains
fixing agents and chemicals, to be fixed onto a material.
|
|
Flame retardant
|
Is used to denote a compound
or mixture of compounds that when added to, or incorporated
into, a polymer serves to slow up or hinder the ignition or
growth of fire.
|
|
Flammable
|
Product or preparation which
may catch fire after contact with a source of ignition.
Types are identified when:
a) they heat up and finally start burning in
contact with air at
normal temperature without any external
energy supply,
b) they can start burning in
solid condition after the source has been taken away,
c) they have a flash point below
21 °C in liquid condition,
d) they form in gaseous condition
an explosive mixture with air at normal pressure,
e) they create in contact with
water or wet air highly flammable gases, and
f) product or preparation has
a flash point below 0 °C and a boiling point of 35 °C or below.
See: Flash point.
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|
Flank
|
1. Part of the hide that covers
the belly and the upper part of the legs of the animal (shanks).
2. Leather made from 1.
3. The position of a hide or
skin corresponding to the definition of bellies.
Note: Fig. A; e. in ICT Glossary
of Leather Terms.
|
|
Flash point
|
Minimum temperature at which,
under specified conditions, a liquid gives off sufficient flammable
gas to produce a flash on application of an ignition source.
|
|
Flay - (Butchers)
|
Flay is
a cut in the flesh side of the hide or skin made by the butcher
when removing the skin from the carcass.
|
|
Flay (v); flaying
|
Process of removing the hide
or skin from a dead animal.
|
|
Flaying knife
|
Knife for flaying animals having
a rounded and curved end, designed to minimise flaying cuts
on hides and skins.
|
|
Fleck
|
Small
areas of grain loss caused by ectoparasite infestation. Fleck
in suedes is generally caused by blood vessels that do not dye
properly. See: Light spot.
|
|
Fleece
|
Totality of the hair and wool
fibres on the whole skin of a fur animal.
|
|
Flesh (v); fleshing
|
Process of cutting away the subcutaneous
tissues, or flesh, from inner side of a hide or skin.
|
|
Flesh finish
|
Finish which is applied to the
flesh side of leather. Mainly used if the flesh side is visible
in the final product, but also used to seal the flesh side of
saddlery and harness leathers.
|
|
Flesh side
|
The inner side of a hide or skin
which was in contact with the animal’s body.
|
|
Flesh split
|
The innermost layer of a hide
or skin, obtained by splitting into two or more layers.
|
|
Fleshing damage
|
Damage
can be caused by a mechanical fleshing machine if, for example,
hides are infested with dung. The dung causes uneven thickness
in the hides causing the fleshing machine to gouge the flesh.
Poor trimming prior to fleshing can cause damage as long shanks
get caught in the machine. See: Chatter marks.
|
|
Fleshing knife, (flexible)
|
Long, more or less flexible,
straight, two-handled knife, with one or both edges sharpened,
used for cutting away the subcutaneous tissues, or flesh, from
hides or skins laid over the beam.
|
|
Fleshings
|
Small pieces of connective and
adipose tissues cut from the inner surface of hides and skins
in the fleshing operation.
|
|
Flesh-to-flesh
|
Hides or skins piled on each
other with their flesh sides in contact.
|
|
Flex (v); flexing
|
Measure
of the ability of leather to bend through a considerable angle
more or less easily without damage.
Note: Bally flexometer which measures the ability
to withstand repeated flexing to and fro without damage.
|
|
Flexibility
|
Quality or state
of being able to be flexed or bent repeatedly.
|
|
Flexible
|
Responsive to change; adaptable.
Also, term used to describe pliable and supple leathers.
|
|
Flexometer
|
Instrument to measure
the flexibility of materials.
|
|
Flip over
|
Occurs
in a spraying machine or its drying tunnel where the edge of
a piece of leather folds over on itself and the wet finish adheres,
leaving a dull mark. Generally applies to light leathers and
can be overcome by adjusting the air movement within the spraying
machine and drying tunnel.
|
|
Float
|
Simple level detection system
for reservoir, basin or tanks. Also refers to the aqueous liquor
in which a process such as pickling or tanning is performed.
|
|
Flocculation
|
Process following the coagulation.
Agglomeration of destabilised particles into microfloc, and
later into bulky floccules which when settled are called floc.
The introduction of a reagent called a flocculant or a flocculant
aid may promote the formation of the floc.
|
|
Flotation
|
Treatment stage consisting of
bringing to the surface any solids suspended in the water with
the help of gaseous microbubbles. The scum thus produced is
then removed by skimming.
|
|
Flow
|
Poor flow
is characterised by a patchy appearance to the finish which
has been applied. It is caused by poor film formation generally
due to poor wettability of the leather.
|
|
Flow-improver
|
Additive to finish formulations
to assist wetting the leather surface and improve flow out of
the finish. Surface wetting problems during finishing often
occur with water repellent leathers, fatty substances, or the
drying processes such as vacuum or paste drying.
|
|
Fluff (v); fluffing
|
Abrading the flesh side of dry
leather with a rotating pumice or carborundum wheel to give
it a nap and a level substance. See: Dry wheeling, Buff (v);
buffing.
|
|
Fluffing wheel
|
A revolving wheel, formerly of
pumice, but now either narrow and wooden or papier mâché, with
a crown dressed with emery or carborundum powder, or wide and
barrel-shaped of emery or carborundum, used to cleanse the flesh
side of, or give a nap to, respectively dry or damp leather.
|
|
Fluidised bed
|
ISO 6107-4 : “ A
bed of small particles freely suspended by an upward flow of
liquid, gas or combined liquid and gas ”.
It is a possible technique for
waste incineration.
|
|
Foam
|
Scum layer of varying thickness
on the surface of the effluent treatment tank.
|
|
Foaming
|
1. Development
of foam during mixing or stirring of a finish formulation.
2. Necessary condition
of the finish preparation used for the application of foam finishes.
|
|
Fog (v); fogging
|
1. In the context
of the leather industry, this is the tendency of the leather
(or other materials) to release materials that are able to form a fog, or mist, on a surface such as glass. This is particularly
applicable to the automotive industry and the fogging of car
windscreens and windows.
2. Fogging test -
Test to evaluate the tendency of a leather (or other material)
to release material able to fog a surface, for example a glass
or a windscreen.
|
|
Folding resistance
|
Property of a leather
to be folded without any damage.
|
|
Formaldehyde
|
Organic compound sometimes used
in leather processing and finishing. This product is being replaced
by other aldehydes and alternative products.
|
|
Formaldehyde tannage
|
Tannage with formaldehyde, H.CHO,
is no longer performed; formaldehyde has been replaced by glutaraldehyde
or modified glutaraldehyde.
|
|
Frame dried
|
Designates a hide or skin dried
whilst stretched on a frame.
|
|
Frame dryer
|
Cabinet or throughfeed drying
unit with frames to which the leather is fixed to corrosion
resistant, perforated metal plates by means of special clamps
(toggles).
|
|
Free acid
|
Acid not bound to
other chemicals, such as the fatty acids split by hydrolysis
(chemical or enzymatic) from triglycerides (fats or oils).
|
|
Free formaldehyde
|
Formaldehyde content
in a leather or other material, determined with or without physical
or chemical treatment of the sample.
|
|
Free water
|
Water contained in the interstices
of a material, none being held to it by chemical or physical
forces.
See: Bound water; set (v); setting-out;
samm (v); samming; dry (v); drying.
|
|
Fresh hide
|
Uncured hide, within such a short
period after flaying from a freshly slaughtered animal so that
it has not suffered from autolytic or microbiological changes.
|
|
Fresh lime liquor
|
Lime liquor through which no
hides or skins have passed.
|
|
Frigorifico
|
Hides from South America, particularly
Argentina, Uruguay and Brazil, which are cured by the Frigorifico
method. In this cure, the skins are washed in brine and then
placed in the salt pack.
|
|