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G.A.G.
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See: Glycosaminoglycans.
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Gall (nut, apple)
|
Pathological growth produced
on the leaves, buds or fruits of various trees, especially oaks,
by the action of various insects, particularly of the genus
Cynips.
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Gall wasp
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Wasp of the genus Cynips, causing
the growth of galls.
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Gallotannin
|
Class of vegetable tannins which
are esters of phenol carboxylic acids, chiefly gallic, m-digallic
and related acids, with polyhydric alcohols and sugars such
as glucose; readily hydrolysed into their components.
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Garment leather
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See: Clothing leather.
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Gas Chromatography (GC)
|
Separation technique
involving passage of a gaseous moving phase through a column
containing a fixed phase; it is mainly used as a qualitative
and quantitative analytical technique for volatile compounds.
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Gas meter leather
|
Leather capable of being rendered
air-tight by impregnation with oils and used for diaphragms
in gas meters.
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GC
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See: Gas Chromatography.
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GC-ECD
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See: Electron
Capture Detector Gas Chromatography.
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GC-MS
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See: Mass Spectrometry
Detector Gas Chromatography.
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Gear leather
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See: Harness leather.
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Gel filtration
|
Type of chromatography
which separates molecules on the basis of size; higher molecular
weight substances pass through the column first. Also known
as molecular exclusion chromatography; molecular sieve chromatography.
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Gelatine salt test
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Test to check the
presence of a vegetable tannin in a solution by adding a gelatine
solution containing salt
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Gelatine
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Water-soluble, gel-forming protein,
prepared from collagen by extracting limed and delimed skin
pieces or ossein (degreased and decalcified bone) with hot water;
the process involves shortening and uncoiling of the polypeptide
chain.
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Geometrisation
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To trim effectively at the earliest
possible point in manufacture to minimise waste and optimise
yield.
See: Trim (v); trimming.
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Glacé goat
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Leather made from goat skin finished
as glacé kid with a smooth, glossy grain surface but semi-chrome
or vegetable tanned.
Note: In Italy, this leather
may be chrome tanned, synthetic tanned or alum tanned.
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Glacé kid
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Upper leather made from kid or
goatskin by a full chrome tanning process and given a smooth,
bright, glossy finish.
In France and Germany the tannage
is the two-bath process.
In Holland and the UK also called
glazed kid.
See: Gloving Kid.
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Glacé kid
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When applied to gloving leather
a synonym of gloving kid.
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Glacé leather
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Straight dyed grain gloving leather,
especially on the continent of Europe.
See: Gloving kid.
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Glacé leather
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Leather finished on the grain
side with a bright, smooth, glossy or glasslike surface obtained,
according to the type of leather, by glazing, plating, ironing
or polishing.
See: Glacé goat; glacé kid.
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Glacé tanning
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Tawing, or dressing, with a mixture
of alum, or aluminium sulphate, salt, egg yolk and wheat flour.
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Gland
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Any cell or organ which synthesises
and secretes some particular chemical substance for use by the
body or for excretion.
See: Phospholipids.
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Glass cylinder
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Fixed glass cylinder in the working
head of a glazing machine which imparts a high gloss to previously
coated leather by rapidly moving across the leather surface
under high pressure.
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Glass plate
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Glass plates in frames which
are used in the paste-drying process. A glass plate is covered
with a thin starch paste and the wet leather is slicked out
on this, grain side to the glass, to which it adheres, thereby
preventing shrinkage on drying.
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Glaze (v); glazing
|
Operation carried out by a glazing machine to impart a
high gloss to previously coated leather. A glass or agate roller
is pushed with frictional pressure over the leather surface
in rapid sequence.
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Glazing cylinder
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Fixed glass or agate cylinder
in the working head of a glazing machine which imparts a high
gloss to a previously coated leather by rapidly moving across
the leather surface under high pressure.
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Globulin
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Any of a class of simple proteins
with little or no solubility in water, but soluble in salt solutions.
Globulins are extracted to a great extent by salt preservation
of hides. With the increase in fresh hide processing, the blood
protein of the clotted blood in hematomas could cause stain
problems during leather making (haemoglobin iron + unhairing
sodium sulphide).
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Gloss
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Lustre of a polished surface,
which gives a superficially attractive appearance, by reflecting a high proportion of incident light.
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Glove leather
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See: Gloving kid.
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Gloving kid
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Soft grain gloving leather, capable
of being considerably stretched without springing back. In the
strict sense made from kid skin tawed, or tawed and subsequently
chrome tanned or simply chrome tanned.
Note: Sometimes called Glacé
kid.
In the UK sometimes applied to
leather made from lambskin. In Spain the leather is mainly chrome
tanned.
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Glucogallin
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Ester of one molecule of gallic
acid and glucose, such as
D-glucogallin, first isolated
from Chinese rhubarb and occurring in tara, myrabolams and eucalyptus
extracts and formed by breakdown of several gallotannins.
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Glue
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Impure form of gelatine obtained
by extracting bones or glue-stock with hot water.
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Glue-stock
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Trimmings from untanned hides
and skins and fleshings, used in the manufacture of gelatine
and glue.
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Glutaraldehyde
|
Dialdehyde, OHC.(CH2)3.CHO.
Can be used as a solo, pre or re-tanning agent for all types
of leathers. Improves wash, perspiration and alkali resistance.
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Glutaraldehyde leather
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Modified glutaraldehyde pre-tannage
given to hides or skins prior to the main tannage.
Note: Combination chamois.
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Glyceride (mono-,di-,tri)
|
Ester of glycerol with respectively
one, two or three esterified
(–OH) hydroxyl groups.
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Glycerol
|
Trihydric alcohol, CH2(OH)CH(OH)CH2OH.
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Glycoprotein
|
Member of a group of animal conjugated
proteins containing as prosthetic groups one or more saccharides
with a relatively low number of sugar residues, covalently bound
to the protein moiety; occur in connective tissues and include
certain globular proteins.
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Glycosaminoglycans (G.A.G.)
|
Glycosaminoglycan (G.A.G.) is
any of a group of polysaccharides which contain aminosugar residues.
G.A.Gs are often found in complexes with protein molecules as
proteoglycans and include heparin, chondroitin, hyaluronic acid,
blood substances and dermatan sulphate (DS).
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Glyoxal
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Dialdehyde, OHC.CHO, which tans
in fairly concentrated solutions of alkali carbonates and bicarbonates,
giving a light, tan-coloured, flexible leather.
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Goat skiver
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Tanned grain split of a goat
skin.
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Goatskin
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Skin from a goat with straight
hairs, in contrast to one from a goat with woolly hair such
as Angora, Kashmir and other types.
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Gold leather
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Leather with a gold-coloured
metallic surface. The metal may be gold or a gold-coloured alloy
or a white metal in conjunction with a tinted lacquer. The metal
may be applied in the form of leaf or foil or as a finely divided
powder suspended in lacquer.
Note: Mainly produced from goat
or kid skins or sheepskins.
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Grade
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Position in a scale of size,
quality, or intensity.
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Grain
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Outer surface pattern
of a hide or skin which includes the hair follicles and pores
just beneath the thin layer of epidermis. During the unhairing
process the epidermis is removed and the underlayer becomes
the grain surface.
On finished leather,
the nature and design of the surface.
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Grain (v); graining
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See: Board (v); boarding.
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Grain absorptivity
|
Ability of the grain surface
of a leather to take up a solution or liquid.
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Grain break
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Grain
break is the pattern of tiny wrinkles formed when the leather
is bent grain inwards. The causes of poor, or coarse break can
be due to stale raw material or processing defects. See: Break.
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Grain burst
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Fissure, or break, in the grain
layer of a leather.
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Grain cracking
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Formation
of cracks in the grain surface of leather under the stresses
of pulling or bending, as in lasting.
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Grain distension
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Elongation of the
grain when pulled or stressed.
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Grain dyeing
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Dyeing of the grain layer of
a full grain leather.
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Grain embossing
|
Form an artificial grain on the
surface of a leather by pressure from a heated engraved plate
or roller.
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Grain impregnation
|
Agents to improve the break by
tightening the grain surface and reducing any excessive absorbency
capacity. Special pre-treatment of the leather before the application
of a polishing agent or the base coat.
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Grain layer
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The portion of a hide or skin
extending from the surface exposed by removal of the hair or
wool and epidermis down to about the level of the hair or wool
roots.
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Grain oil (v); grain oiling
|
Application of an oil to the
grain surface of leather to protect the surface from darkening
by oxidation during the drying process, or to protect a finished
leather.
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Grain pattern
|
Pattern presented by the surface
of the dermis of the hide or skin after removal of the epidermis
and hair or wool, or pattern of the finished leather.
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Grain split
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The grain layer of a hide or
skin obtained by splitting it into two or more layers.
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Grain tightness
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Firm attachment of
the grain layer of a leather to the underlying dermis, shown
by the absence of wrinkles when the leather is fixed grain inwards.
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Grained leather
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Leather whose natural grain pattern
has been developed by boarding or which has had a grain pattern
impressed upon it.
See: Board (v); boarding; boarded
grain.
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Grasser skin
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Calfskin or kip taken from an
animal which has been fully weaned to a green diet, characterised
by coarseness of grain.
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Grease
|
General term for a solid or semi-solid
material with certain fatty properties, such as feel, which
may be a single material or a blend of various oils, fats, soaps,
etc., used for such purposes as stuffing leather and lubrication.
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Grease (v); greasing
|
Introduce grease into a material
or apply it to the surface.
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Grease mark
|
Dark,
fairly extensive area on leather, especially over the kidney
or backbone area due to excessive concentrations of natural
grease.
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Grease topping
|
Grease preparation applied to
a finished leather to give it special properties.
Note: Properties such as gloss,
water-repellency, etc.
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Greased nubuck
|
See: Pull up effect.
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Greasy paste
|
Greasy mixture used to spread
on the surface of certain leathers.
Note: Used to impart waterproofness
in bridle and harness. See: Dubbin
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Green flesh (v); green fleshing
|
Flesh hides or skins before liming.
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Green fleshings
|
Small pieces of connective and
adipose tissues cut from the inner surface of hides and skins
in the fleshing operation (after soaking).
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Green hide
|
More or less fresh, uncured hide
as flayed from an animal.
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Green weight
|
Weight of the hide as it is removed
from the carcass and trimmed at the time of flaying, before
any evaporation has begun.
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Grey scale
|
Series of achromatic
tones having varying proportions of white and black to give
a full range of greys between white and black; also in a grey/black
scale. A grey scale is usually divided into 5 steps with half
divisions. (e.g. 1, 1/2, 2, 2/3, 3 etc.) Usually used for the
evaluation of colour change or transfer (e.g. 5 = no colour
change, 1 = high colour
change). The white to black grey scale is used to assess staining
(colour transfer) and the grey/black scale is used to assess
the change in colour.
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Grey shimmer
|
Undesirable surface effect of
a leather caused by uneven refraction of light especially on
leather with coarse hair pores, dark coloured finishes or in
leather with very thin finish coat.
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Grid
|
Plate, formed of a system of
crossed parallel bars or wires, over which leather is stretched
for drying.
|
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Grin (v); grinning
|
Formation
of paler, or grey looking, parallel fine crevices when the leather
is stretched or bent grain outwards, owing to the rupture of
the pigmented finish coat.
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Grind (v); grinding
|
Grinding bark or other vegetable
tanning material.
|
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Grinder
|
Device with grinding wheel for
sharpening the knife blades of splitting machine, shaving machines,
etc.
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Grinding wheel
|
A rotating grindstone for sharpening
a knife as in the splitting machine, shaving machine, etc.
|
|
Ground (v); grounding
|
Applying of a base coat to leather,
to block the pores, before
applying the true finish coats.
|
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Ground substance
|
Amorphous material containing
acid mucopolysaccharides, such as chondroitin sulphate, in which
the fibres and cells of connective tissues are embedded; certain
constituents are concerned with the growth of collagen fibres.
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|
Ground tan-bark
|
Tannin-containing bark, especially
oak and pine barks, ground ready for use.
|
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Ground tanning material
|
Vegetable material, such as barks,
fruits or woods, reduced to small fragments for leaching or
for use in layers.
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Growthiness
|
Grain
wrinkles, or fat wrinkles, seen as depressed valleys on the
grain surface, mostly the neck and radiating at right angles
from the backbone. Growthiness is an inherent characteristic
of skins and hides and can only be minimised by processing and
mechanical actions.
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Guard
|
Part of a machine specially used
to provide protection by means of a physical barrier. Depending
on its construction, a guard may be called casing, cover, screen,
door, enclosing guard, etc.
|
|
Gypsum stain
|
Darker and harder area on the
leather surface due to the deposition of insoluble calcium and
magnesium salts (phosphate), formed by the interaction of calcium
and magnesium compounds in the curing salt and phosphate derived
from bacterial action on blood and/or muscle tissues.
|