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Lacquer
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Solution of a substance in one
or more organic solvents which, on evaporation of the solvent,
leaves a more or less hard, transparent and glossy protective
film, such as shellac in alcohol.
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Lagoon
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Large, more or less shallow,
enclosed area or basin, into which impure water, or waste liquor
is introduced for storage, mixing, settling-out of solids, etc.
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Lake
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Insoluble organic pigment made
from a dye and a mordant. It is obtained by precipitating a
soluble organic dye with a precipitating agent, such as a metallic
salt.
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Lambskin
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1. A lamb’s skin or a small fine
grade sheepskin, or the leather made from either.
2. Such a skin dressed with the
wool on and used especially for winter clothing.
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Laminate (v); laminating
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Ready prepared finish film on
a carrier foil which is applied to the leather surface by pressure
and heat. After plating the carrier foil is peeled off.
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Laminated leather
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Composite material normally composed
of layers of leather laminated together. If a layer of another
material is incorporated the term is defined differently.
See: Patent laminated leather;
plastic surface laminated leather.
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Landfill
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Area where waste and rubbish
are deposited and eventually buried.
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Landfill (sanitary)
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A specially engineered site for
disposing of solid waste on land, constructed so that it will
reduce hazard to public health and safety as well as the environment.
Some features include an impermeable lower layer to block the
movement of leachate into ground water, a leachate collection
system, a system permitting the control of methane, and daily
covering of garbage with soil.
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Lanolin
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Purified wool grease that has
been refined to produce a paler colour and reduce its odour
and free fatty acid content. Lanolin is often used in cosmetics
and in ointments.
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Larrigan leather
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Oil-tanned hide leather, used
largely for moccasins.
Note: North American term.
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Lastometer
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Apparatus used to
give information about the tendency of a material to cracking
or breaking during the lasting process in shoe manufacture.
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Latigo leather
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Cattle hide leather tanned with
a combination of alum and gambier, used for cinches, ties, saddle
strings and other saddlery work and for army accoutrements.
Note: North American term.
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Layer
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Coat formed by one application
of a season or finish.
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LC
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See: Lethal concentration.
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LC50
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Concentration of a substance
in the environment, such as a river or in the atmosphere, which
causes the death of a specific species, such as fish.
LC50 indicates a substance which
kills 50% of a group of specific animals. It is generally expressed
in mg of substance/l, but also mg of substance/cm² when a substance
or preparation is directly tested on the skin.
See: Lethal concentration.
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LCA
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See: Life cycle assessment.
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LCCP
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See: Long-chained chlorinated
paraffins.
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LCSCP
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See: Long-chained sulphochlorinated
paraffins.
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LD
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See: Lethal dose.
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Leach (v); leaching
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Removal of desired soluble constituents
from a material by a suitable solvent, such as tannins, etc.,
from vegetable tanning materials by water.
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Leachate
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Liquid that has percolated through
solid waste and/or has been generated by solid waste decomposition,
and has dissolved or suspended materials in it. The liquid may
contaminate ground or surface water.
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Leaf tannin
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Tannin contained in leaves, such
as sumac tannin.
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Leather
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General term for
hide or skin with its original fibrous structure more or less
intact, tanned to be imputrescible. The hair or wool may or
may not have been removed. Leather is also made from hide or
skin which has been split into layers or segmented either before
or after tanning. However, if the tanned hide or skin is disintegrated
mechanically and/or chemically into fibrous particles, small
pieces or powder and then, with or without the combination of
a binding agent, is made into sheets or other forms, such sheets
or forms are not leather. If the leather has a surface coating,
this surface layer, however applied, must not be thicker than
0,15 mm.
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Leather goods
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General term used
for goods made from leather.
Note: Bags, pocket
books, belts, cases, etc.
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Leather stacker
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Device for receiving leather
automatically and individually from a machine or conveyor and
laying them flat on each other, for example, on a pallet.
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Leatherboard
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More or less thick and flexible
sheet material, composed mainly, if not entirely, of ground
or disintegrated leather, held together with a suitable binder,
such as rubber latex. Leatherboard is not leather.
If tanned hide or skin is disintegrated
mechanically and/or chemically into fibrous particles, small
pieces or powder and then, with or without the combination of
a binding agent, is made into sheets or other forms, such sheets
or forms are not leather.
Leatherboard is sometimes, mistakenly,
referred to as “bonded” or “composition” leather, but none of
these are leather.
See: Leather; tannage.
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Lecithin
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Member of a type of phospholipid
present in the skin, and also in egg-yolk, composed of glycerol
esterified with two molecules of higher fatty acid and one molecule
of phosphoric acid, linked to a molecule of a nitrogenous base,
choline.
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Leopard grain
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Grain
defect on sheepskin leather visible as slightly rough, dull
spots, scattered over the surface, similar to the spots on a
leopard skin. The grain is actually damaged on the raised areas
of the mottle.
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Lethal concentration (LC)
|
Concentration of a substance
in the environment, such as a river or in the atmosphere, which causes the death of a specific species.
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Lethal dose (LD)
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Dose of a substance which causes
the death of a specific species. It is generally expressed in
mg of substance per kg of the animal.
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Leuco-compound
|
Compound related in constitution
to a dye, into which it can be converted by oxidation or reduction.
This product could be colourless, or almost colourless.
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Levacast
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Finish used for upgrading splits.
A natural leather grain structure is taken from leather by making
a rubber sheet-like silicone matrix. By means of a special coating
machine and a special finish preparation the grain structure
on the matrix is transferred on to the surface of the finish
coat, leaving a split leather which looks like a grain leather.
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Levant
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Leather with a characteristic
drawn-grain pattern, produced originally by an astringent tannage,
but nowadays by hand or machine boarding on vegetable or semi-chrome
goat and sheepskin, or vegetable tanned seal skin.
Note: When the pattern is produced
by embossing, it is called "Levant grain".
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Level (v); levelling
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Converting tanned hides or skins
to a similar and uniform predetermined thickness over their
area by operations such as splitting, shaving, whitening and
buffing.
See: Equalise; equalising.
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Levelling agent
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Material added before, or during
dyeing which, by slowing down dye uptake, promotes the production
of a level colour.
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Levelling properties
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Substance with the property to
produce a level, even, or uniform distribution throughout a
material.
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Levelness
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Even property. Note:
Dyeing levelness.
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Lice
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Two types
of lice cause damage to hides and skin. Biting and sucking lice
can both cause subsequent rubbing
and scratching leading to abrasions and then infection. Also
linked specifically to light spot,
fleck and scatter or spread cockle damage.
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Life cycle assessment (LCA)
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Et Technique for assessing the environmental
aspects and potential impacts associated with a product by compiling
an inventory of relevant inputs and outputs of a product system,
evaluating the potential environmental impacts associated with
those inputs and outputs, interpreting the results of the inventory
analysis and impacts assessment phases in relation to the objectives
of the study.
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Lifting leather
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Leather for the layers (lifts)
used to build up heels.
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Light spot
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Small
areas of grain loss caused by ectoparasite infestation. Fleck
in suedes is generally caused by blood vessels that do not dye
properly. See: Fleck.
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Lighten (v); lightening
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Alter or treat the colour of
a dyed material in the direction of white, prior to dyeing.
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Lightfast
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Ability
to endure long exposure to normal light conditions without serious
deterioration of properties, especially colour.
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Lime
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Liquor based upon lime, calcium
hydroxide, Ca(OH)2 but usually containing other chemicals,
such as sodium sulphide (Na2S) or sodium hydrosulphide
(NaHS), into which hides and skins are placed to loosen the
hair, remove non-structural proteins, saponify fatty matter,
open-up the fibre structure, etc.
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Lime (v); liming
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Treatment of hides and skin,
originally essentially with a lime solution, but today also
with other alkalis, or alkalis together with reducing agents,
in order to loosen, or destroy, the hair or wool, remove unwanted
proteins, saponify fatty matter, open-up fibre structure, etc.
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Lime blast
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Surface
of a limed skin affected by lime blast appears shiny. Lime blast
interferes with vegetable tanning and also affects dyeing adversely.
It is caused by limed material being exposed to air for too
long; the calcium hydroxide reacts with carbon dioxide in the
air and forms calcium carbonate. High calcium levels in water
can also cause lime blast.
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Lime flesh (v); lime fleshing
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Flesh hides or skins directly
after liming.
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Lime fleshings
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Pieces of connective and adipose
tissues cut from the inner surface of hides and skins in the
fleshing operation (after liming).
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Lime liquor
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Liquor based upon lime, but usually
containing other chemicals, into which hides and skins are placed
to loosen the hair, remove non-structural proteins, saponify
fatty matter, open-up the fibre structure, etc.
Note: Other chemicals include
sodium sulphide.
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Lime paint
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Paste of lime applied to, or
painted onto, the flesh sides of hides or skins to loosen the
hair or wool.
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Lime slurry
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Lime residue similar to a sludge,
composed of deteriorated hairs, dissolved proteins in suspension
and unused lime.
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Lime splits and trimmings
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Waste obtained by splitting and
trimming unhaired and limed hide or skin.
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Lime sulphide
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Lime liquor sharpened with a
sulphide, usually sodium sulphide.
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Lime water
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Saturated solution of lime, that
is at 1,6 g/l of Ca(OH)2.
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Limed weight
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Hide weight after soaking, swelling
in lime, minus hair, epidermis and after the removal of flesh
by the fleshing machine.
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Limed wool
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Wool which has been removed from
sheepskins after loosening by steeping the skins, folded wool
inside, in a lime liquor.
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Lime-sulphide unhairing
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Removal of hair or wool from
hides or skins by means of lime and sulphide.
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Lime-yard
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Department of the tannery where
hides and skins are prepared for tanning and especially the
section where they are treated with lime liquors to loosen the
hair, to open-up the fibre structure, etc.
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Liming pit
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Pit in which hides or skins are
steeped in milk of lime, or milk of lime together with other
chemicals, to loosen the hair, remove unwanted protein constituents,
open-up the structure, etc.
Note: Other chemicals usually
include sodium sulphide.
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Lining leather
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Leather used for the linings
of shoe uppers, handbags and other leather goods.
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Lining shearling
|
Tanned and dressed sheep or lambskin,
bearing short wool, used for lining purposes.
See: Shearling.
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Lipase
|
Fat-splitting enzyme.
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Lipid
|
Collective term for animal and
vegetable oils, fats and waxes and certain related substances
which are insoluble in water but soluble in fat solvents. Divided
into simple, compound and, sometimes, derived lipids.
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Lipolysis
|
Hydrolysis of triglycerides.
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Lipoprotein
|
Group of widely distributed conjugated
proteins that contain a considerable percentage of lipid (fat),
such as lipid protein complexes. They occur in both soluble
complexes, as in egg yolk and mammalian blood plasma, and insoluble
ones, as in cell membranes.
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Liquor loading
|
Loading of vegetable-tanned sole
leather by drumming it in the wet state in a short float of
concentrated tan liquor.
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Liricure
|
Low salt short-preservation method
based on direct application of powder preservative extender
mixtures to the flesh surface of the hides or skins, the modus
operandi closely resembling salt curing.
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Live weight
|
Weight of live animal as it is
presented to the auction house for sale.
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Long-chained chlorinated paraffins (LCCP)
|
Paraffin (organic hydrocarbonate
substance) with the formula R-Cl, where R groups represents
a long-chain alkyl radical containing more than 20 carbon atoms.
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Long-chained sulphochlorinated paraffins (LCSCP)
|
Paraffin (organic hydrocarbonate
substance) with the formula R-SO2-Cl, where R groups
represents a long-chain alkyl radical containing more than 20
carbon atoms.
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Loose and pipey grain
|
Grain
layer which is loosely attached to the underlying main corium
layer and forms folds or wrinkles when the leather is bent grain
inwards. Often caused by staleness and can also be caused by
mechanical processes. Note: Staking.
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Losing colour
|
Alter in shade or intensity of
colour, by the action of light, sun or weather.
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Low grain
|
Grain
enamel that has been damaged by bacterial, mechanical or chemical
action. See: Rubbed/sueded/abraded
grain.
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Lubricant
|
Anti-friction agent, usually
oil or grease, which lubricates a material or machine.
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Lubricate (v); lubricating
|
Apply an anti-friction agent
(a film of fluid, usually an oil, or of a semi-solid, such as
grease) to a material surface such as leather fibres.
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Lubricating power
|
Capability of fatty substance,
solution or liquid, to enter into a porous solid such as leather
in order to provide anti-friction properties to a material.
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Lustre
|
Special top coating agent used
for suede and nubuck leather to impart a sheen or lustre to
the surface fibres.
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Lymph
|
Colourless, aqueous fluid in
the intercellular spaces of tissues and in the lymph tubes,
containing a small amount of protein and certain cells (lymphocytes).
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Lyotropic swelling,
|
Uptake of water by, and swelling
of, a protein, produced by neutral salts and due mainly to the
interaction of ions and molecules with non-ionic bonds, probably
crosslinks of the hydrogen bond type, leading to lessened cohesion.
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Lyotropic unhairing
|
Removal of hair or wool from
hides or skins by the means of substances breaking hydrogen
bonds.
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