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R&D
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See: Research & Development.
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Raceway brining
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Raceway, such as a tank shaped
like a racecourse, in which brine solution and hides are moved
around by a paddle, for brine curing of hides.
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Radiation curing
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Method of curing hides by radiation.
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Rapid tannage
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See: Quick tannage.
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Rash
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Skin reaction
to insects, bacteria, chemicals etc. See: Dermatitis.
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Raw hide lace
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Buffalo hide, limed, unhaired,
dried out and lightly oiled, cut into strips for the purpose
of joining transmission belting.
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Raw material
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Unprocessed natural product used
in manufacture.
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Rawhide
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A more or less translucent product,
made from bovine hides, with the hair and flesh removed by liming,
unhairing and fleshing, and dried out in the limed state, usually
without any tanning treatment.
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Rawhide trimmings
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Pieces cut from raw hides or
skins to give them a satisfactory shape.
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Reactive dyestuff
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Dyestuff that contains functional
groups capable of forming covalent bonds with active sites in
fibres, such as hydroxyl groups in cellulose, amino, thiol,
and hydroxyl groups in wool or amino groups in polyamides. These
are especially suitable for gloves and other garments required
to withstand wet conditions and also dry-cleaning.
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Reactive resin
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Resin which contains reactive
organic groups, that are capable of attaching to the fibre by
chemical union.
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Reconstituted leather
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Made by forming leather fragments
and fibres into sheet material with the aid of adhesives, resins,
etc.
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Recycle (v); recycling
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Recovery and/or reuse of what
would otherwise be a waste material.
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Red heat
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Red colouration
found on the flesh side of salted hides after storage. Caused
by salt tolerant (halophilic) bacteria that are aerobic so they
stay on the surface of the hide. Long term storage of hides
with red heat can lead to pitting of the surface. The origin
of salt may influence the development of red heat, with marine
salt containing high levels of halophilic bacteria compared
to rock salt. Kiln dried solar evaporated salts have been found
to be free of halophilic bacteria.
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Reduced chrome liquor
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Solution of trivalent chromium
salts, mainly basic sulphates,
prepared by the reduction of a dichromate solution, by
sulphur dioxide or by an organic substance, such as glucose,
in the presence of acid; used for chrome tanning.
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Re-dye (v); re-dyeing
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Subject a previously dyed material
(leather) to a second dyeing treatment, which could be in a
similar or different colour.
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Reed bed
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Also called reed bed filters
(RBF). The process does not rely on microbial degradation as
a major process but uses the reactive/adsorptive potential of
soil and the uptake by plants. A system successfully used for
treatment of COD.
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Reflesh (v); refleshing
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To give hides or skins a second
fleshing.
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Refrigeration
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1. The science of producing and
maintaining temperature below that of the surrounding atmosphere.
2. Extract heat from a body or
substance by lowering the temperature of the body, such as a hide or skin, and by keeping its temperature
below that of its surroundings.
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Rehydration
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Absorption of water into dried
hides, skins or leather.
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Rein
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Long, narrow leather strap, each
end of which is attached to the bit and which is used to guide
or check a horse.
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Rejects
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Hide, skin or leather of inferior
quality to the established grades and usable only for poor quality
articles or not at all.
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Reliming
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Second liming step.
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Rendement
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Yield figure for a vegetable-tanned
leather calculated from its analysis, namely the weight of leather
at 14 % moisture content per 100 parts hide substance.
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Rendered tallow
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Harder kinds of fat (melted down)
obtained from cattle and sheep body tissue by rendering, using
either a heat process or a heat and chemical process.
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Render (v); rendering
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1. Convert packing house (abattoir) waste, livestock
carcasses and tannery waste, such as fleshings, into industrial
fats and oils (for instance tallow for soap) and various other
products (for instance fertilisers and protein supplement in
feeding stuffs for livestock).
2. Process of extracting, melting or clarifying fat.
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Rendering plant
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Unit for the treatment of animal
carcasses and waste offal in order to recover products such
as tallow. It is also a plant to treat some tannery waste (fleshings).
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Repair bend
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Sole leather bend produced for
the repair of footwear.
See: Manufacturing bend.
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Replacement tannin
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Synthetic tanning agent which
can largely, or entirely, replace the vegetable tannins without
fundamentally altering the tanning process or the character
of the finished leather.
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Resalted
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Treated with salt for a second
time to ensure thorough saturation and hence better preserving
properties.
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Research & Development (R&D)
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Work directed towards the innovation,
introduction, and improvement of products and processes.
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Reset (v); resetting
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Treatment to increase the area
of the hide or skin for the second time.
See: Set (v); setting out.
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Reshaving
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Giving hides and skins a second
shaving to ensure a correct and level thickness. See: Shave
(v); shaving.
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Resin
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Organic substance of natural
origin, (exuded in the sap of trees and plants) with high-molecular
weight, amorphous, and sticky. These substances could be insoluble
in water, but soluble in several organic solvents.
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Resin
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Organic substance of synthetic
resins, made by polymerisation or polycondensation, with similar
properties to natural resins, such as the polyacrylates.
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Resin binder
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Material such as polyacrylate,
for incorporation in a pigmented finish to fix the pigment and
form a film.
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Resin finished
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Leather with a pigment finish,
incorporating a synthetic resin binder.
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Resin retannage
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Second tannage with a resin,
generally for filling purposes, applied in the post-tanning
operation after the primary tannage.
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Resin tannage
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Deposition within the fibres
of pelt, or leather, of high molecular, water-insoluble polymerisation,
polyaddition or condensation, products without these and the
fibres necessarily combining.
Note: Resin tannin.
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Resin tannin
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High molecular weight organic
polymerisation, or condensation, product deposited within the
fibres of pelt or leather without combination necessarily occurring;
introduced either as a water solution and deposited through
subsequent growth of molecular size (urea or melamine/formaldehyde
condensates, vinyl or acrylic compounds) or as water dispersions
(dicyandiamide/ formaldehyde condensates); used for pre-tanning
and for filling leather.
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Resin top coat
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Synthetic resin used as a film-forming
agent to give a protective top coat.
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Resinous spue
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Resinous exudation onto the surface
of leather, which may be difficult to dissolve in organic solvents.
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Resist
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Substance which is applied to
the tips of the hairs of furskins to protect them from uptake
of dye whilst the shafts are dyed.
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Resist wax
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Wax mixture applied to the elevated
areas of an embossed leather to prevent these taking up dye.
Note: Used in the preparation
of “antique” leathers.
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Resistance to hydrolysis
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Resistance of a compound
to being hydrolysed.
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Restraining action
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Slow down the dye uptake, by
means of certain ionogenic (inorganic and organic) auxiliaries.
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Retan (v); retanning
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Subject an already tanned leather
to a further tanning treatment to modify its properties, using
an agent of the same, or entirely different, type.
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Retannage
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Modifying second tanning treatment,
applied to leather that has already received a primary tannage
to modify some of its properties, using an agent of the same,
or an entirely different, type.
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Retanned leather
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Leather which has been subjected
to an additional tannage with similar or other tanning materials.
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Retanning material
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Substance of diverse chemical
properties able to be used in the retannage to impart specific
properties to the leather.
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Reticular layer
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The deeper layer of the dermis
formed by interlacing fascicle of white fibrous tissue.
See: Dermis.
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Reticular tissue
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The inner, thick, dense layer
of the dermis that blends into the subcutaneous connective tissue.
Reticular tissue, because of its netlike structure is also known
as ‘fibre network layer’. The reticular tissue forms the major
part of leather, hence the properties of leather depend to a
considerable extent upon the condition of the reticular tissue
in the finished leather.
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Reverse calf
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Water-resistant suede calf leather
finished on the flesh side.
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Reverse coating
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Application of finishes by a
roller coater where the print roll is counter-rotating to the
leather fed through the machine.
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Reverse lamb
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High-grade gloving leather with
a suede finish on the flesh side, made from the skins of slink
or unweaned lambskins.
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Reverse Osmosis (RO)
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Filtration process which consists
of applying greater pressure on the water than the osmotic pressure,
in order to force the water to pass through a semi-permeable
membrane against the direction taken by the natural osmosis
process. This technique is used in the production of drinking
water from salt or brackish water. It retains particles of between
0,01 nanometre and 1,0 nanometre.
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Reverse side
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Water-resistant suede side leather
finished on the flesh side.
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Rewetting
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See: Condition (v); conditioning.
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Rib lines
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Generally
not visible in the raw but become apparent mainly in the neck
and shoulder when the skin is held up to the light in the limed
state. See: Blind rib.
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Ribbiness
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Naturally
occurring defect in woolled sheepskins, especially of the merino,
finer wool types, consisting of numerous long, raised ridges
on the surface, usually running across it in parallel lines
from the backbone to the belly and flanks.
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Ringworm
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Naturally
occurring defect in woolled sheepskins, especially of the merino,
finer wool types, consisting of numerous long, raised ridges
on the surface, usually running across it in parallel lines
from the backbone to the belly and flanks.
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Rinse (v); rinsing
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Cleansing of a material with
a stream of running water.
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RO
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See: Reverse Osmosis.
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Rock salt
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Common salt obtained by direct
mining of underground deposits in contrast to that obtained
by evaporation of brines or solar evaporation. Calcium, potassium
and magnesium compounds commonly occur with rock salt.
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Roll (v); rolling
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Mechanical process after drying
performed, for example, on vegetable tanned sole leathers. The
purpose is to give the leather fibre structure a high density
by high pressure to improve the stiffness and water resistance.
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Roller coating
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Application of finishes by a
roller coater machine. Most advanced and most economical coating
of leather.
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Roller leather
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Leather with compact structure,
smooth, fine grain, of high resistance to abrasion, smooth flesh
side and firm feel; made from chrome, chrome/synthetic or synthetic
tanned calfskins or sometimes sheepskin, for high draft belting
in cotton spinning machinery, or from skins of calf or close
structure sheep, mainly in natural colour or dyed red for covering
rollers in such machinery. When used for belting it is sometimes
interlaid with different colour synthetic materials. Uniform
thickness of a tolerance not exceeding ± 0,05
mm is essential.
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Rope damage
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If rope
is used for tying bundles of hides and skins for shipping, the
rope should be oil-free. Oiled rope may form stains on the hides
which will show in the finished leather.
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Ross
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Outer, scaly layer of the bark
of older trees.
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Rough tanned leather
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Leather which after tanning has
not been further processed.
Note: It can be in a damp or
dry condition. Differentiation is made between (a) wet blue
leather which has not been fat-liquored and is in a damp condition
and (b) crust leather which has been vegetable, chrome or combination
tanned and which has been dried.
In the UK the term "rough
tanned" is used chiefly in connection with vegetable tanned
hide leather, such as rough tanned strap butts. See: Crust leather.
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Roughing
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Imparting a rough surface by
abrasion.
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Roughness
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Rough
surface feel to the finish of the leather. Possible causes are
poor buffing, contamination in the finish, solvent finish too
dry
Note:
The solvent evaporates even before the finish reaches the surface
of the leather, etc.
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Round feel
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Term used to describe
the feel of a leather which is full, soft and flexible.
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Rove
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Apple-like gall on Quercus infectoria,
produced by insect Cynips insana.
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Rub (v); rubbing
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To polish or abrade
a material.
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Rubbed grain
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Grain
enamel that has been damaged by bacterial, mechanical or chemical
action. See: Low grain/sueded grain.
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Rubbing off polishing
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See: Brush off.
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Run (v); running
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Paddle or drum goods, continuously
or intermittently, to treat hides and skins in different operations
in beamhouse, tanning and post-tanning.
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Run mark
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If concentrated
chemicals come into direct contact with hides or skins, damage
can be caused. This damage is seen in the form of run marks
where the concentrated chemical has spread over an area of the
hide.
Note:
Alkali, acid or chrome run marks.
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Run pelt
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Sheepskin dewoolled by sweating
whose grain and flesh surfaces have become pitted, or liquefied,
in spots by a worm-like organism.
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Russet leather
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Vegetable tanned cattle hide
leather which has been dressed ready for staining or finishing.
Note: In Austria see: Cowhide.
In France this term is also applied
to finished leather.
In the UK sometimes termed "skirt
leather". The leather may now be combination or chrome
tanned.
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Russia calf
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A calf leather tanned with the
bark of willow, poplar and larch, curried on the flesh side
with a mixture containing birch tar oil which gives it a characteristic
odour.
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Russia leather
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Smooth finished, dyed side or
calf leather scented with birch tar oil, vegetable tanned and
made in imitation of the old-fashioned genuine Russia calf.
Now also chrome or combination tanned and given water-repellent
properties.
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