|
Sadden
|
Reduce the proportion of incident
light reflected, scattered and/or emitted by a dyed material,
by addition of a complementary colour in the dyeing mixture.
|
|
Saddlery leather
|
Leather used for all items of
harness.
Note: Saddles, bridles, collars,
etc.
|
|
Safety Data Sheet (SDS)
|
See: Material Safety Data Sheet.
|
|
Safety device
|
Device which eliminates or reduces
risk, alone or associated with a guard.
|
|
Safety instructions
|
See: Health and safety instruction.
|
|
Saladero
|
1. In Spain and Latin America a slaughterhouse
where meat is also prepared by drying or salting.
2. Saladero hide, a cattle hide from Argentina
corresponding to the USA small packer.
|
|
Salt (v); salting
|
Any treatment of hides and skins
with a salt for preservation.
|
|
Salt diffusion
|
Penetration of salt into the
fibrous tissue of the hide or skin.
|
|
Salt shake-off
|
Removing loose salt and foreign
material from a salted hide.
|
|
Salt spue
|
Soluble
inorganic salts can give spue problems in finished leather.
Perspiration on vegetable tanned insole leather can cause inorganic
salts to migrate to the surface forming a crystalline spue.
Inorganic salts used in chrome tanned leather, if not removed
by thorough washing, can also give spues.
|
|
Salt stability
|
Ability to remain unaltered and
stable by the addition or action of salts.
|
|
Salt uptake
|
Amount of salt taken up, or absorbed,
when hides or skins are treated with salt.
|
|
Samm (v); samming
|
Bring leather to uniformly semi-dry
state (approximately 50% to 60%
water content) necessary for certain finishing operations,
by passing it through the sammying machine or by pressing.
|
|
Sample size
|
Physical dimensions, proportions,
magnitude, or extent of a sample.
|
|
Sampling
|
Obtaining of small
representative quantities of material for the purpose of analysis.
|
|
Sand/grit removal
|
Gravitational separation in wasterwater
of gravel, sand and other materials whose density is higher
than that of water.
|
|
Sandalwood
|
Certain trees of Santalum species
or their woods.
Note: Santalum album (India),
Santalum cygnorum (Western Australia); bark of latter contains
20% to 22% tannin.
|
|
Sandwich dyeing
|
A two or more staged dyeing process.
Sandwich dyeing consists of changing the charge of the penetrated
dyed leather before applying the second dye offer, which remains
essentially on the surface. The second dye offer has an opposite
charge to that of the leather.
|
|
Sanitary certificate
|
Document in which a sanitary
fact is formally certified or attested. In the case of the leather
industry, documentary evidence for the harmlessness from a health
point of view of a batch of fresh or cured hides or skins.
Note: Freedom from anthrax.
|
|
Saponifiable fatty matter (grease)
|
Fatty matter which is capable
of conversion to soap by the action of an alkali.
|
|
Saponify (v); saponification
|
Alkaline hydrolysis or decomposition
of an ester to produce the components salt and alcohol which,
in the cases of animal and vegetable oils, fats, and waxes,
are respectively a soap and glycerol or a higher monohydric
alcohol.
|
|
Saturated acid
|
Fatty acid derived
from the saturated series of aliphatic hydrocarbons.
|
|
Saturated air
|
Air which is holding the maximum
proportion of water vapour possible under the given temperature
and pressure conditions.
|
|
Saturated brine
|
Saturated solution of sodium
chloride; used for brining hides.
|
|
Saturated fatty acid
|
Fatty acid which has no double
bonds in the carbon chain. Organic compound with the chemical
formula Cn H2n+1 COOH.
|
|
Sausage casings
|
Tubular material for sausage
manufacture, made from intestines, disintegrated hide and skin
pieces and splits.
|
|
Scab
|
Pimples
caused by various bacterial attack eventually break and the
exudate dries, giving a scab. Also refers to sheep scab - mange.
Note:
Scabs found on leather as a result of severe scabies infestation.
|
|
Scald damage
|
Localised
damage caused to hides or skins by direct contact with steam
pipes or hot water.
|
|
Scalding
|
1. The action of burning with
very hot liquid or steam
2. Wash and clean the carcass
of an animal with boiling water, to remove hair, feathers, etc.
|
|
Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM)
|
Type of electron
microscopy in which a beam of electrons, a few hundred angstroms
in diameter, systematically sweeps over the specimen; the intensity
of secondary electrons generated at the point of impact of the
beam on the specimen is measured and the resulting signal is
fed into a cathode-ray-tube display which is scanned in synchronism
with the scanning of the specimen.
It requires the vacuum
pre-metallisation of the sample (usually by gold).
|
|
Scar tissue
|
Fibrous (more or less distorted)
connective tissue of which scars (permanent marks left on the
skin after the healing of a wound), are formed.
|
|
Scars - closed/healed
|
Scars
caused by healed lesions of the hide or skin. This damage originally
caused by mites, ticks, brands,
scratches, etc.
|
|
Scars - open
|
Typically
a scratch on the hide which has not yet healed. Any other infestation
that has not yet healed to form a solid scar.
|
|
SCCP
|
See: Short Chain Chlorinated
Paraffin.
|
|
Scour (v); scouring
|
Process of cleansing and/or smoothing
a surface by abrasion, such as a heel or sole.
|
|
Scour (v);scouring
|
Washing/cleaning process for
woolled sheepskins.
|
|
Scraper
|
A scraper bridge is used in a
settler to bring the sludge in a specific zone of the settling
tank ready for collection.
|
|
Scraps
|
Parings, shavings, cuttings,
trimmings and other fragments of skin
or leather formed during the manufacture of leather or
leather articles.
|
|
Scratch
|
Damage
to the surface of the hide or skin caused by such things as
barbed wire, inoculations, shearing, machinery within the tannery,
etc.
|
|
Screening (fine or coarse)
|
Retention of solid matter of
more or less large size with the help of a screen which is calibrated
accordingly.
|
|
SCSCP
|
See: Short Chained Sulphochlorinated
Paraffins.
|
|
Scud
|
Pasty mixture of hair fragments,
lime soaps, fatty matters, etc., forced out of hide or skin
by scudding.
|
|
Scud (v); scudding
|
Working over the grain surface
of limed, or bated, pelt with a blunt-bladed tool, by hand or
machine, to eliminate hair fragments, pigment granules, lime
soaps and other impurities.
|
|
Scud defects
|
Improper
removal of partially destroyed cells, hair roots, pigment and
fats left in the hair pockets after soaking, liming and bating. Scud that is not removed can lead to an uneven colour of the grain
and, in the worst cases, roughness of the surface.
|
|
Scudding knife
|
Double–handled, concave, blunt
knife, used on the grain side of dehaired hides and skins to
work out hair fragments, pigment granules, lime soaps, etc.
|
|
Scuff marks
|
Grain
enamel of the leather can be damaged by sharp or rough internal
parts of tannery processing vessels. Scuff marks cause devaluation
particularly of full grain leathers.
Note:
Rough nails, bolts, splintered wood etc.
|
|
SDS
|
See: Safety Data Sheet.
|
|
Sea water damage
|
Damage
caused to hides or skins during transport by sea from wetting
with sea water.
|
|
Seal (v); sealing
|
Applying a special finish to
seal the surface of the leather to assist further finishing.
Also, this term is used to describe a protective top coat.
|
|
Seasoning
|
Application of a solution, based
on film-forming materials such as albumen or casein, sometimes
containing a dye or pigment, to give leather a protective coating,
which may be more or less glossy or can be made so by glazing.
|
|
Sebum
|
Highly complex mixture of lipids
(triglycerides and phospholipids) secreted by the sebaceous
glands and epithelial waste which diffuses upward in the follicle
and impregnates the hair and surrounding horny layers of the
skin to participate in forming the greasy skin surface film.
See: Phospholipids.
|
|
Secotherm dryer
|
Dryer in which the leather is
pasted on to the sides of a stainless, or enamelled, steel chamber
maintained at 95 °C for chrome leather and at 50 °C for vegetable
leather.
|
|
Sedimentation
|
Method for elimination of solids
by the means of settling from a liquor.
|
|
Seed/grass
|
Seeds/grass
caught in the wool of sheep. These can penetrate the grain causing
permanent damage. Also lower the grade and value of the wool.
|
|
Self-basifying chrome powder
|
Mixture of a basic chromium sulphate
powder and a slowly-dissolving alkaline compound, such as calcium
or magnesium carbonate.
|
|
SEM
|
See: Scanning
Electron Microscopy.
|
|
Semi-aniline leather
|
Leather which has been aniline
dyed or stained, incorporating a small quantity of pigment,
not so much as to conceal the natural characteristics of the
hide.
|
|
Semi-chrome leather
|
Leather which has been tanned
first with vegetable tannin and then re-tanned with chromium
salts.
Note: In France, Holland and
Italy it is used for a chrome/vegetable tannage.
|
|
Semi-chrome tannage
|
Vegetable tannage followed by
a chrome tannage.
|
|
Semi-drying oil
|
Fatty oil, which could give a
sticky and tacky film on exposure to air by homopolymerisation,
with iodine value of 110 ± 10.
|
|
Semi-tanned leather
|
Leather which may not be sufficiently
tanned to be satisfactory in use, though it may be stuck-through
by the tanning agent, East India tanned sheep, goat skins, etc.
|
|
Semi-tannin
|
Organic constituent of a vegetable
tanning material which may be taken up from an infusion made
from it by hide or hide powder under certain conditions, such
as in the filter bell method of analysis, but does not possess
tanning properties; may be a phenolic tannin precursor.
|
|
Semi-Volatile Organic Compound (SVOC)
|
Semi-Volatile Organic Compound.
See: Volatile Organic Compound.
|
|
Sensitise (v) ; sensitising
|
Generally applied to chemical
substances or preparations or even materials which, when in
contact with the skin of a person or an animal, cause a skin
irritation.
|
|
Set (v); setting out
|
Operation of working over the
grain surface of wet leather to remove excess water, to eliminate
wrinkles and granulations, to give the leather a good pattern
and to work out stresses so that the leather lies flat.
|
|
Setting out pleats
|
Pleats,
generally around the edges of the leather caused by incorrect
setting out by machine. Can lead to extra trimming and loss
of area yield.
|
|
Settling tank
|
Tank in which suspended solids
and colloids (in the form of floc after coagulation-flocculation
stage) are separated.
|
|
Sewage (raw)
|
Untreated wastewater which is
discharged after domestic or industrial use.
|
|
Sewage system
|
Piping system used to transport
untreated waste water to the effluent treatment plant.
|
|
Shade
|
Slight variation from a given
colour.
|
|
Shade (v); shading (fur)
|
Dye the fur in such a way that
the colour gradually decreases from the roots to the tips.
|
|
Shade dried
|
Dried by exposure to air whilst
stretched on a frame and protected from the sun, such as in
a shed.
See: Overdried; denatured protein.
|
|
Shading
|
Adjustment of shades according
to leather samples.
|
|
Shadow finishing
|
Shading of certain parts of the
leather in footwear and other leather products, usually by the
leather manufacturer. Applies particularly to embossed leathers
where a contrasting colour between the peaks and the valleys
is achieved.
|
|
Shake method
|
Method to evaluate
the tannins and non-tannins content in a liquid or a material
(in solution) by measuring the amount of matter bound by the
hide powder after shaking it together.
See: Non tannin (NT).
|
|
Shank
|
Flat, fingerlike
slab of material inserted between outsole and insole to reinforce
the raised area of the foot arch against body weight and stress.
The shank may be in metal, wood, fibreglass, plastic or other
material.
|
|
Shape-retention ability
|
Ability of a shoe
to retain its original shape with wear.
|
|
Sharpen (v); sharpening
|
Intensify the action of a lime
liquor upon hides or skins by addition of a chemical.
|
|
Shave (v); shaving
|
Reduce and/or level the thickness
of leather, suitable for its intended end-use, by cutting fine,
thin fragments from the flesh side by a machine with a rapidly
revolving bladed cylinder (or by a suitable hand knife).
|
|
Shaved weight
|
Weight of tanned hides or skins
after wet shaving.
|
|
Shavings
|
Small pieces of leather shaved
off when the thickness of wet or dry tanned leather is rendered
uniform by a bladed cylinder.
|
|
Shearing damage
|
Nicks
or larger cut in the grain caused by shears used for clipping
wool or cutting off dung from hides.
|
|
Shearling
|
Pelt of a woolled sheep, about
one year old, slaughtered soon after shearing and bearing wool
about ½ inch to 1 inch (1,0 cm to 2,5 cm) long or the tanned
and dressed skin of a sheep still bearing the original wool
which has been cut to an approximately even length.
|
|
Sheepskin
|
1. 1. Leather from the unsplit skin of a sheep
from which the hair or wool has been removed.
2. 2. Untanned outer covering of a mature ovine
animal before removal of the hair or wool.
3. 3. Leather made from the skin of a wool sheep
and still bearing the original wool.
|
|
Sheepskin prefleshing
|
Fleshing machine for the removal
of fat deposits and the subcutaneous tissue (hydodermis, flesh
layer) at an early stage during processing. Prefleshing is usually
performed after soaking, as soon as the skins (especially air-dried
sheepskins), are flexible enough to pass through the deburring
machine for the removal of burrs.
|
|
Shellac
|
Non-thermoplastic film-forming
material used for finishes. Coloured resinous substance, produced
as an encrustation of tree bark by an insect. Note: Coccus lacca.
|
|
Shorn wool
|
Wool cut from the living sheep.
|
|
Short Chain Chlorinated Paraffin (SCCP)
|
Paraffin (organic hydrocarbonate
substance) with the formula
R-Cl, where R group represents
a short-chain alkyl radical containing between less than 14
carbon atoms, used as emulsifying or fatliquoring agents, to
give softness to finished leather.
|
|
Short Chained Sulphochlorinated Paraffins (SCSCP)
|
Paraffin (organic hydrocarbonate
substance) with the formula R-SO2-Cl, where R group
represents a short-chain alkyl radical containing between less
than 14 carbon atoms, used as emulsifying or fatliquoring agents,
to give softness to finished leather.
|
|
Short float unhairing, (Fasschwöde)
|
Unhairing in a short (low-water
content) float.
|
|
Short Term Exposure Limit (STEL)
|
See: Threshold Limit Value -
Short Term Exposure Limit.
|
|
Short term preservation
|
That period of preservation extending
from hide or skin removal from the carcass to a week or two,
or at best three weeks.
See: Chilling; cool (v); cooling; icing; biocide; irradiation.
|
|
Short term curing
|
Treatment of hides and skins
by a method which will preserve them for a few days only.
Note: Sufficiently long for transport
from slaughterhouse to tannery.
|
|
Shoulder
|
Fore part of a cattle hide covering
the shoulders and the neck of the animal, with or without the
head. A squared shoulder is obtained by cutting off the head including the cheeks and face.
|
|
Shoulder
|
Leather made from the fore part
of a cattle hide covering the shoulders and the neck of the
animal, with or without the head.
|
|
Shrinkage
|
Decrease in dimensions of skins,
hides or leather produced by any cause, such as moist heat.
|
|
Shrinkage temperature (Ts)
|
Temperature at which
a leather decreases in length and width (shrinks) when heated
under specific conditions, for example, when heated in water.
|
|
Shrunken grain
|
Grain shrunken by
a special beamhouse and tanning treatment that shrinks the leather
to give the surface a unique fine-wrinkled effect. Used chiefly
on kid, calf or other light leathers.
|
|
Shrunk-leather tannin
|
Very astringent tanning agent
which produces considerable contraction of the grain.
|
|
Side
|
Half of a whole cattle hide with
the attached offal (head,
shoulders and belly) obtained by dividing it along the line
of the backbone.
|
|
Side leather
|
Shoe upper leather made from
cattle hide sides.
|
|
Silica tannage
|
Tannage by means of an acid solution
of metasilicic acid.
|
|
Silicate
|
Salt of an acid containing silicium
and oxygen.
|
|
Silicofluoride (SSF)
|
Sodium silicofluoride (SSF),
paste (12% moisture) or crystalline salt (Na2SiF6)
used as an additive to salt in curing of hides, SSF prevents
development of red heat, chromogenic and other bacteria. As
an insecticide it is toxic or repellent to a wide range of insects
including hide beetles and moths.
|
|
Silicone
|
Applied on dried leather, finished
leather or leather products to impart water repellency.
|
|
Silk sheen
|
Silky suede with a two-way nap
to give a plush appearance.
|
|
Silky suede
|
Suede leather with an especially
silky sheen or gloss.
|
|
Silver leather
|
Leather with a silvery white,
metallic lustre, produced by applying silver, or more commonly,
aluminium leaf or an aluminium lacquer.
|
|
Single coloured
|
Hide or skin which has only one
colour.
|
|
Sinker
|
Older form of layer, formed by
half-filling a pit with tan liquor upon the surface of which
a wooden grid (sinker) is floated. Hides are then spread, one
by one upon the grid with shanks and head folded in, and each
covered with a lesser or greater amount of ground tanning material
until the pit is nearly full.
|
|
Skin
|
Tissue forming the outer covering
of the body (human and other animal bodies), tough and flexible.
|
|
Skin grease
|
Broad term for the material extracted
from dried skins by means of a fat solvent.
|
|
Skin wool
|
Wool removed from a sheepskin
by the fellmongering process.
|
|
Skirting leather
|
Cattle hide leather, specially
tanned and dressed for the skirts of saddles.
|
|
Skiver
|
Tanned outer or grain split of
a sheep or lambskin.
Note: Sometimes applied to goatskin.
In Germany and Spain the term is also used for the grain split
of a raw sheep pelt.
|
|
Slaked lime
|
Lime which has been treated with
a more or less excess of water to convert it to a pasty mass
of calcium hydroxide.
|
|
Slate (v); slating
|
Work over the grain surface of
delimed, or delimed and bated, hides and skins with a blunt,
rectangular slate or stone tool to eliminate impurities.
|
|